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Roasted Cauliflower
with Tahini-Lemon Sauce: a Middle Eastern Vegan Classic
Recently
at our restaurant, Donderos’ Kitchen, an Indian couple bringing their kids back
to Athens for the start of the UGA fall semester were looking for strictly
vegan, plant-based food. I conversed with them as they settled on falafel
wraps. However, though the falafel, pita bread and hummus are vegan, the
typical condiments include a yogurt sauce and feta cheese. I said I’d make them
some tahini-lemon sauce as a non-dairy substitute. They were delighted with the
food, and their kids, who are vegetarian rather than vegan, will be coming
back, they said, to eat at our place frequently.
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| Photo: Maria Dondero; Plate: Marmalade Pottery, Athens GA |
I had
forgotten how easy making that classic sauce is. It took me half a minute. The
taste of the sauce, as I checked it for salt, took me back to a stunning Lebanese
appetizer, or “mezze,” I had years ago where you dip deep-fried cauliflower
pieces into that same sauce. I learned after that introduction that the
cauliflower can be lightly oiled and roasted, rather than necessarily deep
fried. Either way it’s a great dish.
Tahini
(sometimes spelled “tahina”) is a puree of sesame seeds. It’s available at
whole and health food stores, Middle Eastern groceries, and even at some
supermarkets. “Cortas” brand, from Lebanon, is of very good quality. Mix the
hummus in the jar so separated oil and solids are evened out.
Here’s how
I make the sauce and roast the cauliflower for dipping in it. The recipe serves
six or more as an appetizer.
Make the
sauce first. The cauliflower should be cooked shortly before eating and served
hot.
The sauce:
3
tablespoons tahini
5
tablespoons water
1
tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4
teaspoon salt
Whisk all
together in a bowl until smooth and creamy. Taste, and add a little salt or
lemon juice if desired.
The cauliflower:
1 medium
head of cauliflower
3/4-1
teaspoon salt, depending on the size of the cauliflower
1-1/2 tablespoons
olive or sunflower oil
About 1
tablespoon finely minced “Italian” flat parsley for garnish
Remove
leaves and thick stem from cauliflower. Cut the rest into similarly sized (1-
to 1 1/2- inch) flowerets, each with a piece of stem. Rinse and drain.
Shortly
before cooking, in large bowl sprinkle cauliflower with half of the salt and
toss. Repeat with the other half of the salt and toss. Drizzle with the oil.
Toss well to moisten evenly.
Spread
cauliflower out on baking sheet and roast in 375-degree oven 10 minutes. Stir
and turn cauliflower pieces. Return to oven and roast until golden in a few
places and cauliflower is becoming tender.
Arrange
still-hot cauliflower on a platter or shallow serving dish. Accompany with a
bowl of the dipping sauce, lightly dusted with finely minced parsley.
Alternately,
in the more modern style, smear a platter with the sauce, then arrange the
cauliflower pieces over the sauce. Sprinkle with minced parsley.
