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Greek-Turkish
Meatballs, a treat that can be grilled
I love meatballs, all kinds of meatballs.
And if you follow my recipes you’ll see lots of them. But I’m in good company. Meatballs
show up in the still-existing 4th to 5th century A.D.
Roman cookbook compiled by Apicius, a notorious epicure from the late Empire
period. Indeed, the first chapter of actual recipes in his cookbook (the introductory
chapter describes cooking and household methods) is “Sarcoptes,” translating to
rissoles or meatballs. How’s that for support for my love of meatballs?
Ground meat – chopped with a knife then pounded
in a mortar and pestle in ancient days – can be seasoned throughout. Cooked
correctly, meatballs can be elegantly moist and tender. There’s even a fancy
Ottoman Turkish meatball called Kandin budu köfte, or “Lady’s Thigh” meatballs.
I’m not making this up.
I’ve enjoyed Italian-American meatballs
(not actually Italian) with spaghetti or on “Italian” sandwiches all my life. I
make them a lot for my kids and, now, grandkids (see my blog post from
7/30/2019). But I find the meatballs from the Middle East, Central Asia and
India the most exciting, and subtly but exotically fragrant. Those typically
have names derived from old Persian, where the word, “kuftan,” meant “pounded.”
They show up as kofta (KOF-ta) in India and the Arab countries, köfte (KUF-tay)
in Turkey, and keftedes (kef-TED-es) in Greece. Generally, these meatballs are
made from lamb, but for economic reasons, and where permitted religiously, beef
is also used. Meatballs can be stuffed (köfte dolmasi) as with dried fruit,
chopped nuts, cheese, or spinach. Or they can be skewered for grilling (kofta
kebab). Or they can be served with other appetizers as a “meze.”
When grilled (often after pre-cooking) and
accompanied by a sauce, meatballs can be main-course treats, not some inexpensive
alternative to a piece of meat. In Sweden, delicate poached meatballs in cream
sauce with dill are a centerpiece at weddings and Christmas smorgasbords.
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| Shown with grilled sweet peppers and rice pilaf |
Here’s a good example of Middle Eastern
meatballs as a main-course meat, particularly when finished on the grill. They
can be skewered for a “şiş” kebab (şiş, or “shish,” meaning skewer in Turkish).
These go well with a rice pilaf containing dried fruits plus a yogurt-based
condiment or a cinnamon-tinged tomato sauce. Or they can be rolled in warmed
flatbread, like pita, and drizzled with lemon-tahina sauce (see my blog post of
8/14/2019), tomatoes, lettuce, and fresh herbs like parsley or mint for a great
Middle Eastern sandwich.
A wine that pairs with these meatballs is
a light-bodied red, such as Pinot Noir, Chianti, or Beaujolais. A hearty but
dry rosé also works. In Greece, the wine might be white Retsina, a resin-tinged
wine (which I actually like), but it’s an acquired taste.
The recipe serves six to eight.
Greek/Turkish Meatballs (Keftedes/Köfte)
1 small-medium onion
1 medium clove of garlic
2 pounds ground lamb, beef, turkey, or a
combination
3/4 cup unseasoned bread crumbs
1 egg
6 tablespoons water (3 tablespoons if using
only turkey)
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon oregano
3/8 teaspoon ground allspice
3/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
Flour for dusting, if frying
Olive oil, or sunflower or canola oil, if
frying
Minced parsley for garnish
Lemon wedges for serving
Dice then finely mince onion and garlic. Combine
with meat, breadcrumbs, egg, water and seasonings. Knead ingredients together
well.
Shape meat into balls the size of a walnut
(wet your hands occasionally), then extend them into oval shapes like a
football. Set them on a cookie sheet as you make them.
Either roast them: bake on an oiled cookie
sheet in a 375-degree oven for 13 minutes, then roll them sliding a sharp
spatula under them, and bake for 10 more minutes. Or fry them: heat large frying
pan with a little oil; dust meatballs lightly with flour and roll them gently
to coat all surfaces; fry them, half at a time, turning frequently until they
are lightly browned on all sides, adding oil if needed.
Drain meatballs briefly on paper towel.
Transfer to a platter in a warm oven, or store in refrigerator for later
toasting on a grill, individually or skewered lengthwise as kebabs.
Serve with a rice dish, such as Pilaf (see
my blog post of 8/24/2019). Accompany with
lemon wedges or with cucumber-yogurt tzatziki (Greek)/cacik (Turkish for
virtually the same thing) sauce (see my blog post from 8/20/2019).
