Louisiana-Style “Dirty Rice” made with Mushrooms

 

 “Dirty Rice” is a Louisiana-Cajun sort of rice pilaf in which the rice was traditionally cooked with finely chopped chicken livers, ground meat or sausage, plus seasonings. I prefer it made with chopped dark mushrooms rather than chicken giblets. That idea came from having the wonderful Riz Djon-Djon in Haiti, a specialty rice dish enriched as well as colored a rich brown by local hill-side black
mushrooms. I use Basmati or other long-grained rice, but in Louisiana cooking medium-grained rice, from Louisiana or Arkansas, is more typical.

 

Dirty Rice in Louisiana is frequently served with stewed red beans. It makes a good side for a number of savory braised or stewed dishes.

 

The recipe serves six to eight as part of dinner.

 

1 1/2 cups Basmati or other long-grained rice

1 medium-small onion

1/4 large green bell pepper

1/2 stick celery

1/4 pound (4 ounces) baby Bella or Portobello mushrooms

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon tomato ketchup

1 1/2 teaspoons Cajun Seasoning (or 1/2 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp paprika, 1/4 tsp black pepper, 1/4 tsp celery salt, 1/4 tsp garlic salt, 1/4 tsp cayenne)

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

2 bay leaves

2 1/4 cups low sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth

Coarsely chopped parsley or thinly cross-cut green onion tops for garnish

 

Rinse and drain rice twice to remove excess starch, and set aside to dry. Finely chop together in a food processor the onion, bell pepper, celery and mushrooms, or finely mince them on a cutting board with a chef’s knife.

 

In heavy cooking pot in which the rice will be cooked, fry together the minced vegetables and olive oil. Stir frequently, scraping the bottom of the pot. When the mixture is becoming softer and darker, add the ketchup, dry seasonings, and bay leaves. Add the drained rice and stir well. Add broth and stir briefly. Then do not stir again until cooking is done. Bring pot to the boil, uncovered. When boiling, without stirring, cover tightly and turn heat to lowest setting. Set timer for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, turn off heat and allow to rest without opening the pot for 10 more minutes.

 

Open pot, remove bay leaves, and fluff gently with a fork. Cover and keep warm until served. When serving, sprinkle lightly with chopped parsley or sliced green onion tops.

 

An alternative cooking method can be used with a rice cooker. Put drained rice in rice cooker. Fry vegetables and the olive oil in a pan until color has changed. Add this mixture to the rice in the rice cooker. Add the ketchup, dry seasonings, bay leaves and broth. Stir briefly. Cover and cook as usual without opening the cover. When heat goes off, again without uncovering, let rest 10 more minutes. Then remove bay leaves, and fluff the rice with a fork. Keep warm until served. Sprinkle with the parsley or green onion garnish when serving.

 

Créole-Style Chicken Stewed with Andouille Sausage

 

This dish has some elements of Louisiana Créole cooking, and some overlaps specifically with Gumbo. But it contains no okra, which is not liked by one of our recent dinner guests when I made this, and no roux and therefore no gluten (or tedious roux preparation).

 

I ran the idea for this past a friend from Louisiana who was formerly a chef, and she approved. So, here is my stewed dish inspired by my somewhat limited knowledge, though high appreciation, of Créole cooking. I served it with “Dirty Rice” and Céleri Rémoulade. It went well with a nice Sauvignon Blanc. My friend, the former Louisiana chef, might have chosen a Grüner Veltliner.

 

The recipe serves six. Accompany it with a rice or grits dish, and perhaps a salad.

 

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt for the chicken

1 (14-ounce) smoked Andouille or Cajun sausage

1 medium onion, coarsely diced (1/4-inch)

1 small green bell pepper, cored then coarsely diced (1/4-inch)

1 small red bell pepper, cored then coarsely diced (1/4-inch)

1 large stalk of celery, split lengthwise then cut in 1/4-inch lengths

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 medium-large tomatoes, cored then coarsely diced (1/4-inch)

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons Cajun Seasoning (or 1 teaspoon paprika, 1/4 tsp garlic salt, 1/4 teaspoon celery salt + 1/4 teaspoon cayenne)

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

Salt to taste for the sauce, starting with 1/4 teaspoon

2 green onions, green parts cut in 1/4-in lengths, for serving

 

Trim off any tough or fatty parts of the chicken and cut the flesh into 3/4-inch cubes. Mix in a bowl with the salt and cornstarch. Set aside.

 

With a chef’s knife, split the sausage lengthwise into halves. Slice the halved sausage into 1/4-inch lengths. Prepare the onion, peppers, celery, garlic and tomatoes, setting them out in separate piles on a platter.

 

In a heavy pot, fry the onion, peppers, and celery in the olive oil, stirring frequently, until vegetables are softening. Add minced garlic, stir and fry half a minute. Add diced tomatoes, and stir as the mixture begins to cook. Add the dry spices, other than salt.

 

When vegetable mixture is becoming more moist and the tomato begins to soften, stir in the sausage. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are becoming like a sauce, about 10 minutes. Stir in the prepared chicken. Cook, stirring very frequently and scraping the bottom of the pan, until the raw color has gone from the surface of the chicken. Stir in the salt. Cover the pot and simmer 6 minutes, stirring frequently. Taste the sauce, and add salt if needed. Test a piece of chicken for doneness by cutting in half. If the raw color is gone from the center, bite into one of the halves to see if it’s done to your taste.

 

Cool, then reheat to serve. Sprinkle with the sliced green onion. Accompany with a rice dish or a seasoned grits dish.

 

Céleri (Celery Root) Rémoulade

 

Celery Root (Celeriac), or in French, “Céleri Rave,” is the heavy, bulbous stem base of one variety of celery plants. Although botanically part of the stem rather than a true root, it is treated like a root vegetable. It has a delightful, subtle celery flavor, and is used extensively in colder parts of Europe where the “root” stores well in winter, when the more typical stalk celery was not available prior to modern transportation. Used in soups and stews, or boiled and mashed, it also makes a wonderful type of slaw, “Céleri Rémoulade,” that is somewhere between a salad and a condiment.

 

This special dish is most typical in French cuisine, showing up in appetizers and small side dishes. It is also popular in Louisiana Créole (French-descended) cooking. Fortunately it is simple to make, other than the grating by hand, which is made easier using the shredder blade in a food processor. Recently I got a celery root for another cooking purpose, and prepared a rémoulade with the generous amount I had left over.

 

The recipe makes enough for six or more people as a side salad and may more with appetizers. Leftovers keep well for several days in the refrigerator.

 

1 medium-large celery root, about 1 pound after peeling

4 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 teaspoon vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

 

Peel the celery root, cutting off the twisted smaller roots at the bottom (the peelings and small roots make excellent vegetable broth). With a sharp knife, cut out any crevices left between the bottom roots. Grate the celery root on the coarse side of a hand grater, or use the coarse grater blade of a food processor (first cutting the root into chunks small enough to fit down the feeder tube). Transfer the grated root to a mixing bowl.

 

Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Let the mixture rest five or ten minutes and mix again. Do this once or twice more, as the salt draws a moisture from the grated root and the rémoulade becomes moister. Its best to make this at least a half hour before eating time. Taste the mixture and add salt, if needed, to taste.

 

If serving as part of a meal, place in an attractive serving dish.

Green Chile with Chicken

 

I’ve loved green chile since I first encountered it many years ago in New Mexico. A meat, like pork or chicken, is cooked in a sauce rich in roasted medium-hot green peppers. And no beans are included in the chile, as they typically would be in Tex-Mex chili, though beans are often be served as a side dish.

 

Not having easy access to the wonderful New Mexico green “Hatch” chilies (they can be bought roasted and ground, frozen, on the Internet), I’ve made green chile both at the restaurant and at home using a mixture of Poblano, Jalapeño and ordinary green bell peppers, along with tomatillos, onion and garlic for the sauce. And most recently I’ve tried not roasting these vegetables before grinding them for the sauce, rather grinding them raw in the food processor then “frying” the mixture with olive oil before adding the meat. It’s not like being in Santa Fe, but it still tastes good!

 

Here’s my current, much easier, recipe for green chile with chicken. It makes enough to serve six. It can be accompanied by a bean dish, rice, and/or cheese biscuits.

 

2 large poblano peppers

1 small green bell pepper

2 whole jalapeño peppers

3 medium-large tomatillos

1 medium-small onion

3 large cloves garlic

1/2 cup olive oil

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast

1 teaspoon cornstarch

2 teaspoons salt, part for chicken part for sauce

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon dry oregano

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

 

Remove the stems, cores and seeds from the poblano and bell peppers. Cut the flesh into large chunks and place them in a food processor. Cut the stems off the jalapeños, but keep the seeds. Cut the jalapeños in half and add them to the food processor. Thoroughly puree the peppers, scraping down the inside of the processor several times. Transfer the pureed peppers to a heavy cooking pot.

 

Remove the outer husks from the tomatillos and twist out or cut out the small tough stems. Cut tomatillos in half and place in the food processor. Peel the onion and cut it into large chunks and add it to the processor. Peel the garlic cloves and add them to the processor. Thoroughly puree these vegetables. Add the mixture to the pot, scraping out the processor container well.

 

Add olive oil to the pot and cook the mixture over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot frequently.

 

Meanwhile, trim away any tough or fatty parts from the chicken breasts. Cut the meat into medallion-type pieces, 1-1/2 by 1 by 1/2 inch. Mix the chicken with cornstarch plus 1 teaspoon of the salt. Allow chicken to marinate until ready to add to the vegetable sauce.

 

Add the other 1 teaspoon of the salt plus the dry spices and herbs to the vegetable mix, reduce the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes.

 

Bring the mixture back up to a boil and stir in the marinated chicken. Stir frequently until the raw color has fully left the chicken. Reduce the heat again, cover the pot and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste the sauce and a bit of chicken and add salt to taste, if needed.

 

It’s best to let the chile cool, then reheat it to serve. Do a final taste-test on the salt at this time, and add a little if needed.

  

 

Easy Rémoulade Sauce for Vegetables

 

 

Rémoulade, a traditional cold, tangy condiment for seafood or vegetables, is originally a French  sauce based on, or derived from, mayonnaise. There are many rémoulade versions, especially in Louisiana cooking. It can be easy to make, and at our restaurant we have used various rémoulades, particularly for enhancing roasted vegetables for catering.

 

Here’s a version I’ve made recently for steamed cauliflower. It can also be used over steamed broccoli or asparagus, or even over baked “Tater Tots.” I was thinking of seasoning it with pickled green peppercorns, but was not pleased with the outcome.

 

Since this one is intended for steamed vegetables, I’ve included a method of steaming cauliflower below.

 

The recipe makes enough sauce for food for six people. It keeps well in the refrigerator for a few days.

 

1 clove garlic

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup sour cream

1/4 cup water

1 1/2 teaspoons wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/8 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1/8 teaspoon paprika

Minced parsley for garnish

 

Peel the garlic and bruise it by crushing it lightly with the side of a knife. Rub a mixing bowl well with the garlic, and discard the garlic remnants.

 

Place all the remaining ingredients except the garnish in the bowl and whisk the mixture (or use a fork) until the sauce is smooth. Taste, and add salt, if needed. Allow to sit at least 15 minutes for the flavors to mellow together.

 

Spoon sauce over steamed vegetables, and sprinkle with minced parsley for garnish.

 

Steamed Cauliflower:

1 small head of cauliflower, about 1 pound

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

 

Cut off the leaves. Separate the cauliflower flowerets off the main stem, cutting the stems where necessary. For bigger pieces cut through stems lengthwise up toward the tops and then tear the two sides apart (so the tops don’t get bits cut off). Aim for one-inch pieces, which may require splitting bigger pieces again. (See the photo for an example.)  Place the pieces in a steamer basket, away from the heat.

 

Bring several inches of water to a boil in a pot that the steamer basket will sit on top of. Just before putting the steamer basket over the boiling water, sprinkle the vegetable with the salt. Place steamer basket containing the vegetable over the rapidly boiling water and cover the pot.

 

Steam  cauliflower exactly 5 minutes. Uncover and transfer the steamed vegetable into a shallow bowl or onto diners’ plates.

 

Spoon rémoulade over the vegetable and sprinkle with minced parsley for garnish.

 

Easy Cheese Sauce for Broccoli or Cauliflower

 

The idea for this cheese sauce for serving over vegetables emerged out of my experiments on an easy hot cheese salsa for dipping tortilla chips, which my grandkids like at Tex-Mex restaurants.

Here’s an easy non-Mexican cheese sauce for spooning over hot steamed or roasted vegetables. I’m also including an easy steaming method for broccoli and cauliflower to enjoy the sauce with.

 

Cheese Sauce:

1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

3/4 teaspoon cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

A large pinch of cayenne

A large pinch of garlic salt

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon ketchup

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Minced parsley for garnish

 

In a microwaveable serving bowl, mix together the cheese, cornstarch and dry seasonings. Stir in the milk, ketchup and mustard. Mix well. 

Ten minutes before serving, stir the mixture again, then microwave it for 1 minute. Stir the mixture and microwave for another minute. Stir and microwave another minute. Continue in this manner until the cheese sauce is hot and thickened. Stir and serve the sauce to spoon over steamed or roasted vegetables. Sprinkle, if desired, with minced parsley for garnish.

 

Steamed Broccoli or Cauliflower:

1 pound of broccoli crowns or small head of cauliflower

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

 

Separate the broccoli or cauliflower flowerets off the main stems, cutting the smaller stems where necessary. For bigger pieces cut through stems lengthwise up toward the tops and then tear the two sides apart (so the tops don’t get bits cut off). Aim for one-inch pieces, which may require splitting bigger pieces again. (See the photo for an example.)  Place vegetable pieces in a steamer basket, off the heat.

Bring several inches of water to a boil in a pot that the steamer basket will sit on top of. Just before putting the steamer basket over the boiling water, sprinkle the vegetable with the salt. Place steamer basket containing the vegetable over the rapidly boiling water and cover the pot.

Steam broccoli exactly 3 minutes, or cauliflower 5 minutes. Uncover and transfer the steamed vegetable into a shallow bowl or onto diners’ plates.

Spoon cheese sauce over the vegetable and, if desired, sprinkle with minced parsley for garnish. This is more needed and effective over cauliflower, but it  also looks good over the more colorful broccoli.

 

Lentil Chili with Red Beans

 

 

Lentils, one of my favorite dry legumes, make fine chili. Tasty, versatile, inexpensive and quick-cooking, lentils are are also loaded with vitamins, minerals, protein and fiber. In many ways they’re a wonderfood.

 

Here’s my easily made lentil chili, in which I’m now using red beans. Small red beans, as opposed to red kidney beans, are a variety I’m recently getting to know. They’re the favorite bean for New Orleans and Louisiana cooking as well as one of the most popular beans in several countries in Central America and the Caribbean. While I use them in this recipe, other beans could also do, including pintos, light red kidney beans, and black beans.

 

This chili is purely plant-based. But unless someone is observing a Vegan diet, some cheese or sour cream would typically be served with it. Chili can be the  main course, particularly if accompanied by rice or corn chips, avocado, grated cheese, sour cream, and salsa. Chili, can also be a snack or, if thinned down with extra liquid, can serve as a soup.

 

The recipe serves six, but leftovers are great to have.

 

1 small-medium onion, diced

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 large clove garlic, minced

1 1/4 cups (1/2 pound) dry tan-green lentils, rinsed and drained

2 1/2 cups water, plus more as needed

1/2 cup canned crushed tomato

1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon cayenne

1/4 teaspoon cumin

1/4 teaspoon oregano

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

A pinch of ground cloves

2 (14-ounce) cans red beans (or pintos or others), drained

1 teaspoon vinegar

 

In a heavy pot, gently fry the onion with the olive oil, stirring frequently, until softened. Add the minced garlic and fry one minute, stirring most of the time. Add the rinsed and drained lentils plus the water. Bring to a boil, then lower heat. Simmer, pot covered but stirring frequently, until lentils are becoming tender. Add a little water from time to time to keep a little liquid on the bottom of the pot. This cooking takes 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, assemble all the other ingredients.

 

When lentils are nearly tender, add the crushed tomato, all the seasonings, and 1/2 cup of water. Simmer, covered, and stirring frequently, 10 minutes. Add drained beans and simmer about five minutes. Add a little water as needed to keep the mixture moist.

 

Remove from heat. Stir in the vinegar. Taste the chili and add a little salt, if needed, to taste. The chili can be served now, or for better flavor, cool, refrigerate, and rewarm to serve. When rewarming, add a little water, if needed, to the desired thickness. And re-check the salt, adding a little if needed.

 

Accompany with sliced avocado, sliced tomato, shredded cheese, sour cream, salsa and corn tortilla chips. Optionally, serve with rice as well.