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Pasta al Tonno, Pasta with Tuna and Tomato
In the United States, we are familiar with a limited number
of pasta dishes. By contrast, in Italy, where pasta is ubiquitous, there are
dozens if not hundreds of different, named, pasta dishes. Many of those are
lighter, or simpler, than what we are used to. But in Italy, pasta typically
serves as an early course in the dinner, or sometimes as a snack or light
lunch, and not as the main dinner dish.
I’ve since learned that most of the tuna fishing by Italian
fishermen is based out of coastal villages in Sicily. And while pasta with tuna
and tomato is made elsewhere in Italy, it is a specialty in Sicily,
particularly when made with fresh tuna. I’m pretty sure, though, that the pasta
al tonno I first ate had canned tuna, as the dish typically does in Italy.
Here’s a delightful, fairly light, Pasta al Tonno, that can
serve as part of a dinner, or as a light meal in its own right, accompanied by
a simple salad. This dish is relatively quick and easy to make, but should be
cooked shortly before eating.
In Italian cooking, pasta dishes that feature seafood, rather
than meat or vegetables, rarely also contain cheese. Cheese makes a pasta dish
heavy, and the point of seafood is lightness.
The best canned tuna for this dish is imported from Italy and
is solid and packed in olive oil. At our local supermarket the closest I can
get is Yellow Fin tuna canned in olive oil with the brand name “Genova.” which
though not actually from Italy works satisfactorily for the dish.
The Italian trick of gently frying the garlic, somewhat
crushed, in olive oil till golden then removing it keeps the floral essence of
garlic without any of the bitterness or coarseness.
The recipe serves 6 people as the pasta course of a bigger
dinner or as a light lunch or supper meal. In Italy, salad is served after the
main course, but here we’d typically have the salad along with the pasta or
dinner.
1 (4 to 5 ounce) can solid-meat tuna packed in oil,
preferably olive oil
3 large cloves of garlic, peeled and partially crushed (with
the bottom of a tumbler)
2 tablespoons capers, drained (optional)
1/4 teaspoon dry crushed red pepper flakes
1 (14-ounce) can petite diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 medium-sized fresh basil leaves, or leaves from 4 sprigs
flat (“Italian”) parsley
3 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces (1/2 pound) spaghetti, or short pasta, such as
Rotini or Ziti
Have all the ingredients ready, cans opened, etc. Keep the
juices in the tuna can, since they are used in the recipe. Bring a large pot of
water to a boil and add a teaspoon of salt, ready to boil the pasta.
Heat a heavy, shallow pan to medium-low, and gently fry the
crushed garlic in the olive oil, stirring very frequently, until the garlic is
golden colored. Lift garlic out of the pan, keeping the now-flavored oil in the
pan. Add the drained capers, if used, and stir and fry about 10 seconds. Add
the crushed dry pepper and stir and fry 5 seconds. Add the tomatoes and their
juices to the pan. Press the lid of the tuna can gently into the tuna and add
the juices to the pan. Stir and fry the tomatoes over medium heat a few minutes
until the liquid is reduced somewhat. Stir in the salt and basil or parsley
leaves and turn off the heat.
While the tomatoes are cooking, add the pasta to the boiling,
salted water, and stir well for the first minute so the pasta doesn’t stick
together. Then stir it less frequently. After 5 minutes or so, begin biting
into a bit of the pasta to check for tenderness. When no crunch is present, and
the pasta reaches the tenderness you want, drain it in a colander, catching
some of the pasta water in a small bowl.
Put drained pasta into a bowl to mix, add the cooked tomato
sauce. Using a fork, break up the tuna in its can and add it to the pasta. Toss
this all together briefly. If the mixture is dry, add a little of the reserved
pasta-boiling water to moisten it. Taste for salt, and if needed add a bit.
Transfer mixed pasta to a serving bowl and serve immediately.
