Indian Dal, which
doubles as Spicy Lentil Soup
Essential in an Indian or Pakistani dinner, simmered spicy
“lentil” dishes, collectively called “dal,” are the base of meals throughout
the Indian subcontinent. I put “lentil” in quotes because dal includes many
different dry legumes, from lentils with or without their hulls, to various
beans, to dried peas and split chickpeas. Rich in protein, fiber and nutrients,
the various dals, or “pulses,” are ubiquitous in South Asian cooking, and eaten
daily. For populations that are predominantly vegetarian for religious or
economic reasons, dal provides the main regular source of protein, iron,
certain vitamins, and dietary fiber. Throughout South Asia, dal is typically
eaten with either rice or whole-wheat flat bread called “roti” or “chapati.”
Dal served with Basmati Rice |
Here’s the simplified way I now cook dal. Occasionally I use
other legumes, like channa dal or split, hulled moong dal, or I add vegetables
like spinach or green beans or zucchini (as a substitute for Asian gourds). But
mostly it’s just the dal. Also I cook the spices, onion and butter (the
traditional clarified butter – ghee – is harder to find) into the simmering dal
rather than use the more complicated “tadka” method of frying the spices,
onions and dried chilies in ghee and stirring it all in at the end.
As it turns out, dal, especially when made from split red
lentils (masoor), also makes a delightful soup for Western-style dining, if
diluted with a little water to the desired thickness. It’s like a vegetarian
split pea soup, though more assertive with spice and character.
Masoor dal, split and hulled red (or “Egyptian”) lentils, are
available inexpensively at supermarkets, Indian stores, and natural food
stores. The spices are relatively readily available at the same places.
The recipe makes a little over a quart, enough for six people
as part of a curry dinner, or four hearty bowls of soup for a Western-style
lunch or supper.
1 1/2 cup red lentils
5 cups water
3 tablespoons butter (or vegetable oil for a vegan dish)
1 small onion finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons turmeric
1 1/4 teaspoons whole cumin seeds (or ground as a second
choice)
1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seeds (or ground as a second
choice)
1/2 teaspoon crushed dry red pepper or cayenne
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
Coarsely chopped cilantro for garnish
Rinse and drain the lentils. Place in a pot with the water.
Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Skim off and discard the foam that
arises as the lentils boil.
Add the butter, onion and spices (not the salt), and simmer
over low heat, stirring occasionally and scraping the bottom of the pot, until
lentils are tender and start to disintegrate, 25-30 minutes. If the mixture is
getting somewhat dry, add a little water.
Add the salt and simmer a few more minutes.
Remove from the heat, taste for salt and add a little if
needed. Let cool.
Reheat to serve. Top lightly with coarsely chopped cilantro
leaves when using as part of an Indian meal with rice or chapati.
If served as a soup in the Western manner, the cilantro is
optional.